And when we find an original Rally Master pair in its original yellow box , we have the ultimate “find” for the collector. This pair had been put away for decades, but has emerged in near perfect condition. Heuer’s Innovation — The Rotating Tachymeter Bezel for Race Timing — It all started with a simple question, exactly seven words, on our discussion forum, “would one ever rotate the Tachy bezel? In exploring the tachymeter bezels, also we realized that the rotating tachymeter bezel was a Heuer innovation, incorporated into the mid s Autavia. Interesting Chronographs Added This Month: Two Black Autavia Chronomatics — The black Chronomatic Autavia, Reference MH, is among the rarest of the vintage Heuers, with only three samples being known in our community of vintage Heuer collectors. What a pleasure to borrow a beautiful sample of a black Chronomatic Autavia , to photograph alongside my own watch. It may be a long time before we see two of these together again, so enjoy these photos! Suisse” — No doubt, we have all seen these small letters at the bottom of a few Heuer dials.
My research pal Barry and I have spent many months devising a way to date Gruen watch models using the information stamped in the back of the watch’s case. You can find the full article that includes a detailed description of how to correctly use this new technique using this link: I’m providing a link because the full text includes a table that is important and somewhat lengthy. If I get requests to post the article in it’s entirety in response to this post, then I’ll try to pull together some way of doing it.
The high level summary is that the “Style Number”, one of the two numbers usually stamped in the back of Gruen Wristwatch cases, can be used to determine the date that the watch model began production.
Yes, indeed, this is the manual-wind Monaco, among the rarest of all the Heuer chronographs.
In the past 5 years the number of tools to help us learn about these awesome watches has jumped from a single page Caliber-Date table to at least 3 new, significant dating tools. It’s important to understand the difference between the dates that these tools provide. You want to match the date with the correct use of that date. Here are the 3 different dates that can be found on a Gruen watch.
Style Number Date – This page you are now reading, and the online dating tools found here, all tell you the Style Number Date. This date is an approximation of when the model of watch first went into production. It does not tell us when your specific watch was made.
ladies gruen watch
Below are some pictures of the movements in some of my watches. Swiss made, 15 jewels, circa ‘s. USA made, Hz, circa The Bulova Accutron was the world’s first electronic wristwatch movement, utilising the high frequency vibrations of a tiny “tuning fork” rather than the oscillations of a mechanical balance wheel to regulate timing. These were issued to the British military during the Second World War and on into the ‘s.
Many items of jewellery were exempt from hallmarking because either they were below the minimum weight for hallmarking or it was not possible to punch the mark without damaging the item.
Learn the approx age of your movement by looking up the movement’s start of production date. Visually locate your movement on the map. Great for eBay sellers that need to quickly find movement Caliber Numbers for their movement listings! Shortcut-dating of Your Gruen Watch Don’t want to take the time to get a really accurate answer on the tutorial page? OK, let’s ease you into it. Find the Style Number Date of your watch using the calculator below.
Find the movement caliber number on your movement. Use it to find the date on the Caliber-Date Table. Find the date your Case was manufactured. Look up the serial number on the Serial Number Page. This is THE most important of the dates as it’s really your watch’s “birthday”.
Brief History: Gruen Watch Company
A Hamilton US military “general purpose” watch from In keeping with similar watches of this type, the dial bears the “H3” mark which I think signifies the use of Tritium in the luminescent compound and the Radiation tri-foil symbol. The back of the watch bears the relevant military specification, part number and date information, together with the instruction that it should be disposed of as “radiation waste”.
This watch has an interesting life story! As I understand it, it was procured, along with many other watches, by the British MoD in the ‘s and was evaluated at Herstmonceux Castle at that time owned by the Admiralty for potential military use. In the 70’s, the watches used in the evaluation were sold and became part of a private collection.
For most collectors, this is frustrating.
The last Elgin movement made in America was produced in In between, pinning an individual Elgin down to a specific year and model can be a bit of a chore. Starting around , Elgin used model numbers to identify unique case designs. In the s, the use of model numbers was supplemented by individual model names. The model numbers remained, however, and are the key to finding replacement parts for Elgins of the period.
Identification of a watch is a process, typically done as follows: First, establish that the watch is, in fact an Elgin.
April 18, in Chronograph Tags: Fast forward a decade or so and Breitling released the first version of the watch in this post, the Superocean Ref. The main differences between the two versions are that the early model has no running seconds subdial and has a plain diving bezel rather than the yachting bezel found on the later model. As you can see in the first picture, the watch in this post arrived in pretty poor condition.
The beautiful iridescent white mother of pearl dial and thin bezel make for a watch that looks a bit bigger than the measurement suggests.
Among the first companies to sell wristwatches, the Gruens split their manufacturing between two continents, exporting American technology to Germany and Switzerland, and bringing German and Swiss traditions of craftsmanship to America. Dietrich was born in Osthofen, Germany, in , and started his watchmaking career at age In he went to America and settled near Columbus, Ohio. A hard-working young man, Dietrich was awarded his first watchmaking patent at age 27, in At 29 he co-founded the Columbus Watch Manufacturing Company; the successful enterprise was soon building complete watches in its own employee factory buildings.
To graduate, Fred was given bars of metal from which he had to build working watch movements, designing and manufacturing all the parts.
Elgin Watch Identification Guide
The Fallacy of the “Maker’s Mark” Before sending an item to be assayed and hallmarked at a British assay office a person must first register their details with the assay office they want to use. The reason for this is pretty obvious – the assay office needs to know who to charge for their services, where to return the items, and who to hold responsible and punish if an item is found to be sub-standard, which in earlier times included sentence to the pillory.
This person is called the “sponsor”, which in this context means the person who takes responsibility for the items submitted. The sponsor does not need to be someone directly involved in making the items that they submit for hallmarking. An item will not be hallmarked unless it carries a sponsor’s mark, this is a legal requirement. At one time the sponsor or maker of the item stamped the mark, but now the assay office will hold a punch on behalf of a sponsor and stamp the sponsor’s mark.
It has a 25 jewel automatic, Incabloc shock-protected movement by Felsa.
Another British Military watch on the blog this time, and something of an enigma. The watch is very similar in style and size to the W10 made by Hamilton from and subsequently by CWC from and it shares all of the attributes required to adhere to the strict standards for military use. The case is opened by removing the crystal and splitting the two-piece stem, and inside is a 17 jewel, manually wound calibre made by A.
It has a higher beat rate, 28, bph as opposed to 21, bph, and also has a micro-adjustment mechanism mounted on the balance cock for more accurate regulation. Here is a picture of a cal. In the picture above, the stem is pushed all the way in — in the winding position — and so the stem presses on hacking lever, it pivots around the fixed axis just above the castle wheel and the lower arm of the lever releases the balance allowing it to rotate freely.
The watch arrived in decent condition and needed no more than a movement service, a crystal polish and an ultrasonic clean for the case, so here it is all back in one piece. So, who made these watches? With no markings on the dial, movement or inside the case, the jury is still out. It is thought that around were made, all of which were issued in This is around the time that the contract with Hamilton ended, and the new contract with CWC began, so could it be that this watch was a potential replacement for the Hamilton W10?
Was an order for pieces placed as a trial before the contract was finally awarded to CWC? If so, why was it completely unbranded? If anyone has any information about the history of these watches, it would be great to hear from you.
This is probably the most common question watch collectors have. Sometimes it is easy to answer, and sometimes it is impossible. There have been a lot of watch manufacturing companies that have come and gone over the years. Many have gone out of business, while others destroyed records to save space. Some companies as with the Gruen Watch Company , even lost rocords to fire or other natural disaster.
Fridlander became a town councillor and Justice of the Peace J.
We buy and sell better quality watches from all prominant brands. The early versions all featured a rotating timer bezel indexed for 60 minutes. As time went on the turning bezel became a fixed polished styling detail on many of the renamed Link models. The stationary bezel moved the watch in a dressier direction. Occasionally the bezel would feature a tachymeter scale or was lightly embossed with a minute scale. The red arrow tipped additional hour hand can be independently set to show any time zone you like.
All the regular Tag Heuer Link features are all still here; threaded crown, threaded case back, all stainless steel construction, curved synthetic sapphire crystal, integrated wishbone style bracelet with locking buckle and a Swiss made automatic winding 21 movement. Not only was this new movement one of the first automatic chronographs, it also was quite thin at only 6. The biggest advantage the new movement had was the super fast per hour frequency. The 50 hour power reserve was longer than anything else produced at the time.